Viticulture: a look at alternative grape varieties

23 October, 2006

With the increasing popularity of Pinot Gris and emerging respect for Viognier as an alternative to Chardonnay, it is obvious that wine drinkers are looking for new wine tasting experiences.

Companies involved in grape vine propagation are embracing these trends and recently, Corbans Viticulture sent out a flier promoting five interesting varieties being planted in New Zealand. It is easy to fall into the trap of calling them “new” –yet they each have a history that reaches back through the centuries in their country of origin.

Arneis is a rare white grape variety from Piedmont in north – west Italy. In local dialect, Arneis means “little difficult one” or “rascal”. The name gives an indication of the vine’s unpredictability, as yields can be low.

This variety was first recorded as growing in Piedmont’s Roeri hills as early as the 15th century, but almost disappeared during the 19th and 20th centuries. In the past 30 years Arneis has become very highly rated in both Italy and internationally.

Experimental plantings can now be found in a number of New Zealand’s wine regions. Italian winemakers Enzo and Margaret Bettio of Vin Alto in Clevedon released a Chardonnay – Arneis blend in 2004 for a neighbouring vineyard under the Clevedon Hills label.

Arneis produces a fine, crisp, aromatic dry white wine with a typically fresh nose of pears, stone fruit and almonds. On the palate the wine displays intensity and power and has a remarkable almond flavour in the finish.

Barbera is Italy’s most commonly planted red grape variety, considered a versatile workhorse able to thrive on difficult sites. It is thought that Barbera originated around the Monferrato hills in north – west Italy and over the centuries spread to other parts of Italy.

Barbera is still at an experimental stage in New Zealand and Clevedon’s Vin Alto was due to release its first Barbera blend – Reserve Barbera Celaio - at the end of 2004.

In Italy the far-flung plantings deliver many different wine styles, usually according to local preferences. The wine is considered very approachable due to its low tannin level, usually medium bodied with a succulent acid balance. At its very best the wine displays plenty of plummy fruit with a whiff of barnyard in the aroma and an acid zing on the finish. Savoury with cherry-like, with nutty and herbal Italian varietal cues, Barbera is best-enjoyed young (under four years old).

Nebbiolo is another specialty of the Piedmont region and this great black grape variety is responsible for some of Italy’s finest wines. It is possible that Nebbiolo has been grown in Piedmont since Roman times and there is documentation referring to “Nibiol” in the region that dates back to the 13th century.

Nebbiolo is derived from “nebbia”, the Italian word for fog and refers to autumn mists that are usually swathing the hills when the grape is finally ripe and ready for harvest.

A small berried, thick-skinned variety, Nebbiolo usually produces intense tannic wines with low colour, which are not particularly approachable when young, but given time will deliver a fabulous aroma and complex drinking experience. Tar, roses, chocolate, plums and violets are common references in tasting notes.

This variety favours cooler climates and is “very much” under trial in some New Zealand regions. Tempranillo is Spain’s most widely planted black grape variety and the mainstay of the northern Rioja region.

Tempranillo offers an alternative to cabernet sauvignon and the variety is best suited to our warmest wine-growing region, Hawkes Bay.

Tempranillo means “early” in Spanish and earns its name from an ability to ripen early, usually about two weeks prior to the Grenache it is blended with for making Rioja.

This variety puts the spine into many of Spain’s most respected red wines. The grapes are thick skinned and able to make deep coloured, long lasting wines that aren’t particularly high in alcohol.

Tempranillo wine matures quickly and is ready for drinking in the year of the vintage. Strawberries, spice and leather can be found in the aroma and on the palate but winemakers need to be careful not to over oak the wine.

At Trinity Hill, John Hancock has led the way with this variety and currently markets a Gimblett Gravels Tempranillo made from the 2003 vintage.

Viognier is predicted to be New Zealand’s next major white growth variety and experimental plantings have increased notably. The variety needs a relatively warm climate and can withstand drought but is prone to powdery mildew.

The grapes are a deep yellow and the resulting wine is high in colour. The aroma is laced with apricots, peaches and blossom; Viognier has low acidity, broad flavours and is some times high in alcohol.

Trinity Hills and Te Mata Estate in Hawkes Bay and Millton Vineyard in Gisborne are producing this wine style.

Acknowledgements:

Wine Magazine Italian Supplement 1995

Jancis Robinson’s The Oxford companion to Wine 1999