Alt Varieties 2

26 December, 2006

Sauvignon Blanc continues to go “full speed ahead” as New Zealand’s star performer in the world of wine. Whilst Corbans Viticulture continues to meet demand as a supplier of our most popular grape varieties, they’re also seeking out new varieties for growers to try.

In exploring interesting alternatives, the company is trying to find wines that are viticulturally suited to New Zealand’s climatic conditions. Old and new varieties, the aim is to find those of potential value so growers can find a vineyard corner and try something new for interest.

Corbans Viticulture began importing varieties people are a little more familiar with after talking to New Zealand winemakers with links to the “old world”. Some of these explorations are proving fruitful if we consider Viognier’s move through the ranks.

An advanced clonal selection process means the refined viticultural characteristics of the different varieties enable planting in a range of conditions. Using Nebbiolo as an example: clone CN 36 has medium high vigour and yield with medium large clusters. Clone CN 111 is high vigour, medium-high yield with small-medium size clusters.

In Kaitaia a grower has established good-looking Nebbiolo and Montepulciano plantings. There’s the possibility that these different varieties will do well in non- traditional sites while also making good use of difficult spots in established vineyards.

Mart Verstappen, Peter Morice and Deborah Walton conducted a tasting of some red “alternatives”. The following tasting notes look at only one expression of the wine, so we’ve also provided some general observations.

Montepulciano

This variety originates from central Italy and is most widely planted in Abruzzi where it’s known as Montepulciano D’Abruzzo.

High vigour, dependable yield, the vine produces big bunches of large berries, which ripen late in the season. Suits a warm to hot climate.

Typical wine characteristics include deep colour and moderate acidity. Most are made for drinking young with jammy, plum fruit characteristics and soft tannins. The better wines tend to be dryer, more complex and aromatic with moderate to high tannins and peppery spiciness.

The tasting: Herzog Montepulciano 2002

Colour: Thick, inky velvety red, opaque and stains the glass when swirled.

Nose: Spicy, plums and cherries with coffee, sweat, leather and game

Taste: Black berryfuit and pepper with some liquorice and mint at the edge of the palate and a long, hot port-like finish. Firm acids and tannic grip combine with the flavours to provide a very pleasurable wine drinking experience.

Writer’s note: Framingham also makes a Montepulciano tending towards a softer style with moderate acidity and jammy plum fruit characteristics. It is beautifully balanced and very more-ish.

Tempranillo

Originating from Rioja, Ribera del Duero and parts of Penedes, Spain’s most widely planted and important black grape.

Early bud burst and maturing make it suited to cool climates. Large, long bunches of medium sized berries are produced on a vigorous vine of upright habit.

Typical wine characteristics are broad and hard to pin down. Light to fuller bodied, these wines are typically well oaked. When young, strawberry and cherry flavours dominate.

Maturing quickly, wines are ready for bottling and drinking the year of vintage. Aged Tempranillo tends to have a fuller palate of plums, spice, chocolate, black currant, cherry, raspberry and liquorice.

The tasting: Tinto Pesquera Tempranillo 2002, Spain

Colour: Plummy red, some opacity

 

Nose: Leather, wet wool (lanolin), tobacco, thyme and barnyard smells. All very savoury aromas with some liquorice.

Taste: Warming, light tingly acids and drying grippy tannins give way to liquorice, leather and herbal flavours. Plums come through mid-palate with leather and herbs to the finish.

Writer’s notes: A slightly sweet chewy wine style delivering pleasant flavours. The finish was clean with warming spice, chocolate and liquorice – likeable, not fruit driven, subtle and different. Nicely balanced, complex and more-ish.

 

Barbera

Originally from Piedmont, Italy, Barbera is tolerant of most fungal diseases. A regular and consistent producer, ideally cropped at a low level to achieve flavour and ensure acids aren’t “over the top” at harvest.

Suited to a warm maritime climate, late ripening, producing compact bunches of medium sized berries that are oval with intensely coloured soft skins.

Typically deep ruby in colour with high natural acidity, even when fully ripe. Light to medium bodied with fine tannins and vibrant fruit flavours of plum, ripe cherry and rose, with aromas of roasted hazelnut, spice, liquorice and savoury, earthy notes.

The tasting: Garry Crittenden “i” range, Barbera 2002, South Eastern Australia

Colour: Slightly opaque, deep red with purple flashes and a little brick red creeping in at the meniscus.

Nose: Soft, fruity, herbal, a whiff of mushroom but overall quite subdued. A shake-up lifted the floral notes; there was some yeasty pong and a note of caramel

Taste: Some tingly acid moved straight through to fresh lively fruitiness mid-palate. A very clean tasting wine with some apparent sweetness from the alcohol; this stood out and resulted in a lack of integration.

Writer’s notes: There was a little cinnamon and spice to the back of the palate and onto the finish. This wine wasn’t in balance and we guess it was possibly originally quite acidic; the winemaker dealt to it and consequently stripped it of its “guts”. This one-dimensional wine may benefit of time out of the bottle (glug into jug).

Nebbiolo

The variety of the illustrious Barbaresco and Barolo wines of Piedmont, Italy.

Due to high vigour and yield, Nebbiolo needs shelter and warm flowering conditions to combat fruit set problems. Early bud burst and late ripening, Nebbiolo is expressive of the region and suits a warm climate.

Traditionally high in acid and tannins, maturing to a powdery softness. Complex nose of violets, roses, tar, cherries, leather, herbs and dried fruit, often paired with subtle new oak.

The tasting: Giribaldi Nebbiolo D’Alba 1999 DOC, Italy

Colour: Brick red with terracotta tinge. Clear and brilliant

Nose: Port-like, slightly oxidised, light and fruity. Sweet, slightly floral with light smoky oak.

Taste: Gripping, drying tannins introduced this port-like wine style. Initially a little scented or confected, there was berry fruit and gentle wood mid-palate.

Writer’s notes: The finish was fairly short with hints of chocolate and coffee. A well- integrated wine, time in the bottle has served it well.

International demand for Sauvignon Blanc may be insatiable now, but if there’s a change further down the track, new varieties tried today may prove advantageous in the future.